| | The WONDERS of Nestled in the heart of Italy’s smallest northern region, the Valle d’Aosta, at the base of the Mont Blanc massive mountain range, sits the world famous Courmayeur ski resort. Du bbed “The Queen of the Alps” due to its magical setting, the town is surrounded by twelve peaks rising to above 4000 m and has long been known as a holiday resort of indescribable beauty. Little doubt then, that on a recent business trip to Milan I took a week off to experience its breathtaking scenery for myself. Getting there
By road the voyage is easy, rewarding and fun. I rented a car in Milan for about $300 US for the week with unlimited kilometres and full insurance included. The directions were easy: From the Autostrada (highway) outside Milan’s Malpensa airport take the A5, a toll motorway, and follow the signs for Turino (Turin) – Aosta. Then take the Morgez exit and follow the SS26 Super Strada all the way to Courmayeur. One important detail: Make sure your car is equipped with snow tires or chains, you will need them.
For those who prefer to take in the scenery without bothering with highway maps, the excellent Italian rail service (FS) runs from Milan to Dedier, just a short bus ride to Courmayeur. Or, if you are pressed for time, Geneva’s Cointrin Airport, in Switzerland, is the easiest and fastest way to the resort. Courmayeur is just 105 km from the airport.
Arriving in Courmayeur
Vacationers in Courmayeur are in good company. A plaque at the entrance of the city commemorates Queen Margaret of Savoy’s visit in 1880. Queen Margaret and other early visitors originally came to Courmayeur to enjoy the benefits of its famous mineral waters, however today it seems they come as much for the shopping as the winter sports.
Modern day Courmayeur is replete with modern hotels and new private homes, catering to the ever-growing population of year-round vacationers who congregate on the outskirts of the town.
The ancient stone buildings and narrow cobble-stone streets lend the city centre a charming atmosphere, and the shops, well, the shops are something else! If it happens that you have forgotten to bring your favourite Cartier or Rolex watch, or a designer evening dress, Courmayeur’s main street has all the designer labels from which to choose. Armani, Valentino, Gucci, and Dolce & Gabbana are just some of the houses that have set up shop.
Marbella cheap hotels If you are in the mood for some slightly more cultured tourism you should visit the old Romanesque Church of Santi Pantaleone and Valentino, the Maluquin Tower, the remains of a fourteenth century fort and the Duca degli Abruzzi Alpine Museum.
Hotels in Courmayeur are fairly small compared to those in most other cities or resorts, but they are thriving as more and more year-round vacationers discover the region’s charms.
The Grand Royal has an indoor and outdoor pool, a sauna, solarium and Turkish bath; excellent after a full day on the ski slopes. The New Gallia Gran Baita, where I stayed, provides direct access to all ski area facilities, including the cable car and ski lifts. There is also a good restaurant, as well as a particularly good tavern with a commanding view of the mountains.
Courmayeur also has an extensive selection of other modern and welcoming 2 and 3 star hotels, private houses and apartments for rent.
Alpine Dining
Maastricht hotels In terms of fare, Courmayeur has some of the finest dining the region has to offer.
I could not help but indulge in the local cuisine and wines at some of the best restaurants in town: Pierre Alexis, established in 1877; Gabriella's for delicious pasta; La Padella for traditional stew and roasts; and the Pizzeria du Tunnel which serves fine pizza of all kinds.
The menus are to die for: homemade pasta with porcini mushrooms; risotto with salsiccia (ground spiced wild boar meat in white wine); and gorgonzola and mascarpone (a selection of blue and cream cheeses) melted on polenta. Another polenta dish was served with a stew of marinated venison cooked in herbs, mushrooms, onion and garlic in a rich, red wine sauce.
My last gourmet dinner in Courmayeur consisted of a mocetta soup, followed by a leg of wild chamois marinated in garlic, herbs & juniper berries. Luckily, fine wine is easy to come by in Courmayeur, and the meal was accompanied by a robust, local red Chambave. Continued in the hard copy of the magazine. | | |
