1. Higher cuts mean better ankle buttressing. But if your only goal is to be nimble and quick, go with a midcut.

2. The upper: Full-grain leather is most durable, mesh most breathable. The more seams, however, the greater your chances of a blowout.

3. The last comes first--the shoe's shape must fit your foot's. Every last is different, so try on several brands.

4. Waterproof? Treated leather can turn back raindrops, but the shoe is only waterproof if a membrane bootie sits inside.

5. Cush comes from the midsole. EVA is plush, but turns to mush under heavy loads. For serious schlepping, you need polyurethane.

6. A rubber rand fends off scuffs and extends the life of the upper.

7. Outsole: Vibram is the reliable benchmark, but other rubber compounds are plenty durable. Rugged conditions call for deep lugs.

REALITY

• Your leather footwear will stay soft if you apply a conditioner such as Biwell or Nikwax Leather Conditioner. Caution: too much, and your boots will feel like a biker's jacket.

• Clean dirt and grime off your mountain footwear regularly; it can infiltrate and weaken the stitching. Use warm water and a soft nylon brush.

• When they become evidently unwaterproof, apply a manufacturer-recommended waterproofing treatment (most of them are water-based, with refined wax or EVA) to your mountain footwear. The top choice? Highly breathable Nikwax Aqueous Wax Waterproofing is the smooth-leather favorite; for nubuck, suede, or fabric, try the company's Nubuck and Suede Waterproofing. Hint: Avoid wax-based treatments--they attract dirt. Another hint: If the camping store doesn't sell it, you probably don't want it.

• Want your leather boots to fit for a lifetime? Buy a shoe tree. Otherwise they can curl up at the toes like a pair of clown shoes.

DEBUNKED

• Hotelzimmer in HvolsvollurOne bit of old-timer's advice suggests walking through a stream and then hiking in the boots to mold them to your feet. Sorry, old-timer, but you're wrong--that'll only stretch the leather out of shape.

• Never apply baseball-mitt leather-softening compounds such as mink oil or neat's-foot oil to speed up boot break-in; they'll inevitably weaken the hide.

• Would you dry your wet skin by putting it close to a fire? We thought not. Too much heat will ruin sole adhesives and warp the uppers. Instead, dry your boots at room temperature with newspaper stuffed inside. --J.H.

Illustration by Kevin Curry